Puglia, also known as Apulia, is in the south of Italy; the heel of Italy's boot. The region is not one of Italy's traditional tourist destinations, but it is becoming increasingly popular as travelers discover the area's varied charms: baroque towns, white-washed trullo houses, olive groves and orchards, blue sea and beaches, plenty of sunshine and excellent cuisine.
The region is divided into six provinces: Bari (which is the regional capital), Brindisi, Foggia, Lecce, Taranto and the recently-constituted province of Barletta-Andria-Trani. The area around Lecce and the southernmost tip of the 'heel' is called the Salento. Puglia borders the regions of Campania, Molise and Basilicata. Basilicata's most famous site, the cave-town of Matera, is close to the Puglia border and makes a good addition to a tour in this region.
Almost always ruled by outsiders, Puglia was a primarily feudal farming region, and its character today still reflects its relatively humble agricultural past. The most glorious time for Puglia was probably the centuries when Greek colonists established cities in southern Italy. There's not much to see now in Puglia of the towns of Magna Graecia, but the pottery from the period ('Apulian ware') survives in museums here and around the world. The Romans established important ports here which served the Empire; the Appian Way which starts in Rome finishes in Brindisi, its end still marked by one surviving Roman column (its twin is now in Lecce). The next period to have left a bold impression on Puglia's landscape was the Middle Ages, when grand churches were built in Puglia's distinctive version of Romanesque style, with added elements influenced by the area's commerce with the East. In the thirteenth century Puglia was ruled by the 'Wonder of the World', the Holy Roman Emperor Frederick II, who built a string of castles through the region which are still among its most notable sights.
Like the rest of southern Italy, the region has endured difficult decades and saw a lot of emigration as Pugliesi headed north or abroad to seek their fortune. Nowadays, although the poorer quarters of the cities still have bad reputations, it feels a fairly comfortable and settled place to the traveller. Investment in industry and development means that the areas around Puglia's big ports, Bari, Brindisi and Taranto, are dominated by ugly industry and brutal modern residential tower blocks and building sites, but away from these eyesores there are vast tracts of attractive countryside. Much of the region's interior is covered by olive groves, interspersed with orchards and other crops. If you have only seen small olive groves before, the endless 'forests' of olive trees come as a surprising sight. Although the area is dry with low rainfall, the Pugliesi grow large quantities of fruit and vegetables, and their cuisine is rich in local products like beans, chicory and broccoli.

Puglia airports and travel

Ryanair offer budget flights from London Stansted to Bari Airport (called Palese Airport). From the airport there is a local bus service into the centre of Bari, and there is also a more expensive airport shuttle bus which runs straight to the railway station. Puglia has another international airport at Brindisi, called Brindisi Casale. This too is connected by bus to the centre of town. The airport is close to a great tourist attraction: the frescoed Basilica di Santa Maria del Casale. From Brindisi Airport there is also a fast coach service to Lecce, which runs several times a day and stops just outside the centre of Lecce.
 Most visitors hire cars to make it easy to travel around Puglia and visit smaller destinations. Although they do generally return with at least one story of getting terribly lost, this is quite a practical way to travel and means you can stop where you choose. But take a good road map and ask directions when in doubt.
Some of the more remote sights - and particularly beaches - are not well-connected by public transport; bus services are scanty and it can be difficult to find information about public transport. However, it is worth persevering with research, as it is entirely possible to see the region's best sights without needing to hire a car. On our Puglia pages we provide information on reaching our featured destinations by public transport, and on car-free excursions. The little railway lines run by FSE (Ferrovie Sud Est) are one of the most scenic ways to view the countryside, and link together some of Puglia's top tourist towns including Alberobello, Lecce and Otranto. There is another private railway line to the north of Bari, and one crossing the border into Basilicata, connecting Bari with the cave-town of Matera. In addition there are national FS train services which connect most of the major towns with the rest of the Italy.

Puglia tourist destinations

Puglia's most striking tourist attraction - because it is so unique - is the trulli district, around Alberobello (a UNESCO World Heritage site). A trullo is a simple dry-stone-walled building with a domed roof topped by a cone. They are dotted around the green Valle d'Itria, and in Alberobello the town's large clusters of white-washed trulli create an unusual and memorable scene. Also striking, in a more sophisticated style, is Lecce, a town famed for its baroque beauty: all golden stone and elegant seventeenth-century architecture with riots of cherubs and foliage. On the whole, the smaller towns of Puglia, and the countryside, make better holiday destinations than the big port cities. Martina Franca, Locorotondo, Cisternino and Ostuni are all picturesque hilltop towns scattered around the Valle d'Itria. Along the coast, Otranto is one of the most attractive seaside resorts, with a picturesque old town and blue waters. Around Taranto there are fascinating underground sanctuaries and churches, while at Castellana Grotte, close to Alberobello, there are impressive natural caverns offering guided tours.
The small Tremiti islands are busy destinations for daytrippers enjoying holidays on the wooded Gargano peninsula - a national park with rocky shores, and a popular holiday destination. The Salento area is another popular choice for summer holidays: it is the peninsula making up the lowest part of the heel of Italy's boot.
Many Catholic pilgrims head for San Giovanni Rotondo, the site associated with Padre Pio - the bearded modern saint you'll see depicted on mountains of cheap religious kitsch all around Italy. Among other religious sites are the Church of St. Nicholas (Basilica di San Nicola) in Bari, where the remains of 'Santa Claus' (stolen from Turkey by the enterprising Baresi) lie in state in the crypt. For a different kind of pilgrimage, film lovers may be interested in a side-trip to Castellaneta, the birthplace of Rudolph Valentino. If you are touring with a car you'll be able to visit the intriguing castles of Frederick II, including the enigmatic octagonal Castel del Monte, another World Heritage site.
 
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